Maui - Haleakala National Park

Maui as all other Hawaiian Islands was born by volcanoes. Most of those are long since dead and the islands are slowly sinking into the Pacific Ocean, with the exception of the big island. Maui was born of two volcanoes, Haleakala and West Maui. The volcano of West Maui has eroded and is hardly recognizable as a volcano anymore. In contrast, Haleakala may have erupted as recently as 1790. Haleakala Crater is actually not a crater or a single large volcano but a group of smaller volcanoes. It is better referred to as basin or valley. Haleakala National Park stretches all the way from the rooftop of Maui to the Pacific Ocean of East Maui and covers several vegetation zones (alpine, sub-alpine, rain forest, dry forest, coast).

Haleakala Crater

Even if your main destination for visiting Maui is the beautiful beaches and resorts, you should not miss a visit to Haleakala Crater. Its majestic beauty and size will dazzle you for sure. While you are driving up the winding road, you may begin to question if you are going to see anything, since you will be driving in dense, foggy clouds. Every time I have visited the crater though, the clouds have cleared before reaching the top offering spectacular views from above the clouds. On a clear day, you can see the Island of Hawaii from up here.

On Haleakala you can observe one of natures finest spectacles, a sunrise above the clouds. Although it took me two visits to Hawaii and 3 visits to Haleakala until I made it out of bed that early, I am happy I did pull myself together and got up at 2:30 in the morning. Our Hotel was near Lahaina and it takes that long to drive up the mountain. You should arrive at least 30 minutes before sunrise. It is going to be very cold (around 40 degrees Fahrenheit or 4 degrees Centigrade) so bring appropriate clothing. You have to be somewhat lucky to have good cloud coverage. Especially with clouds above you, the whole sky will turn purple. Even with clouds “only” below you, it is a majestic sight (see photos).

There will be a long line of cars going up the mountain. The photos were actually shot from Leleiwi Overlook instead of the summit, as the summit fills up with cars too quickly and the sight from Leleiwi is just as pretty. Make sure you have plenty of time getting up the mountain, since it is quite a distance from your hotel and nothing would be more frustrating than missing the sunrise by a few minutes. The sight is actually most beautiful before the sunrise.

At sunset you can witness another miracle on Haleakala. If you are lucky, the sun will project your shadow onto the clouds surrounding it by a rainbow.

There are many trails that lead through the crater but very few lodging opportunities. There is a cabin and a campground, that’s about it. The crater looks much smaller from the visitor center than it actually is. You will notice that when you take a hike down to one of the cinder cones along the Sliding Sands trail.

The colors of the crater will amaze you.

The summit trails (e.g. Halemau’u Trail) are much easier and don’t cover as much elevation, something to be considered at this altitude, but still offer splendid views.

Kipahulu

This area of South Maui is part of the National Park (hopefully you saved your receipt from visiting the crater). Most families come here for excellent picnic grounds and swimming in the Seven Sacred Pools (picture). The pools are the most accessible in Maui. They are connected by waterfalls and make for excellent swimming. Watch your knees while getting in and out of the water and read the warning signs about flash floods carefully (see tips below). The last of the pools is connected to the waters of the Pacific Ocean. Amazingly, between our first time on Maui (2001) and the second time (2005) this place has become so popular that it is now crowded in the afternoon. The best time to visit is early in the morning when it is less crowded.

Most people only visit the seven sacred pools and never bother to explore the jungle above. The Pipiwai trail follows the creek up into the jungle to some awe-inspiring waterfalls through a bamboo forest. This area is very humid and mosquito infested. With the proper protection you will be fine and I would encourage you to try the path as it is really worth the sight. You can get a trail map in the visitor center.

Follow the trail to the Makahiku Falls overlook. Shortly after the overlook there was a turn to Infinity pools that has been closed off since our first visit (2001). This is probably due to the dangerous nature of infinity pools and the infinite stupidity of people (readers excluded). The picture was shot during our first visit in 2001. Infinity Pools are located on top of a 200ft waterfall (about 70m). It is on the property of the National Park and thus their responsibility. Who can blame them for closing it? During flash floods it is easy to get swept across the drop and fall to your death. We really regret that it had to be closed though. The swimming was excellent and truly unique and we were alone most of the time.

If you follow Pipiwai trail, you will venture through a wonderful bamboo forest and eventually arrive at Waimoku Falls.

Fees

The entrance fee to the park is $10. Since it is a U.S. National Park, the National Park pass will be accepted. The National Park pass costs $50 and gives you access to all National Parks in the United States. If you only visit Maui, you don’t need the pass, since Haleakala is the only National Park on the island.

Activities

Biking down the Mountain: Local Companies organize Sunrise tours. At the end of the tour you will bike down the mountain. It’s expensive and the bikers look silly in their protective suits.
Helicopter Tours: Probably one of the best ways to see the Mountain but also one of the most expensive
Airplane Tours
Paragliding
Hang Gliding
Hiking
Horseback Riding
Swimming

Tips

Get a convertible. You will regret not having a convertible in this climate.
Sunblock is essential under the tropical sun.
Mosquito Repellant is another necessary evil when you explore the rainforest.
Flash Floods: Rainfall is frequent and unpredictable. Water levels in streams can swell very fast and sweep you away. This is one of the reasons why infinity pool has been closed to the public, but even the seven sacred pools further down the stream can be dangerous.
Leptospirosis: Avoid swimming in streams if you have cuts and do not drink the water as it is polluted with bacteria. The water of the seven sacred pools is somewhat purified and considered save.
Dehydration: When you hike in the Jungle bring plenty of water.
Altitude: Haleakala Crater is about 7000 feet (2134m) high and offers many miles of walking trails. While descending into the crater you will feel fine but remember that you have to climb the sandy trail back up again.
Food: Dining on Maui is always a problem (outside the greater Lahaina and Kihei areas). The park doesn’t offer any food, so come prepared. Best Dining is offered in Lahaina, but be prepared to wait for a seat during high season.
Prices: Maui is an expensive place. Gasoline and Food will be more expensive than most areas in the continental US. Even groceries are more expensive here.
Bikers: When you are driving up to the crater in the morning you will meet bicyclists biking down the mountain all the way. Drive carefully as they don’t always do.