Our Tahitian Princess Cruise

The Tahitian PrincessDarkness descended quickly, turning the turguoise lagoon ink-black. As fast as the sun set a full moon rose, silhouetting Bora Bora's emerald peaks and creating a silvery sliver on the water.
It was surreal. As we sipped fruit cocktails in front of a screen suspended between two coconut palms, a young Tahitian princess told her forbidden lover in a farewell letter that she would return to him In his dreams, guided over the distant South Seas by the moonlight.

We watched the Oscar winning movie from the deckchairs planted on one of French Polynesia's small, isolate islands, Motu Tevairoa quite possibly the same coral sands on which the 1928 silent picture was filmed. It was the first evening of a six night Cruise but the "cinematamua" under the stars was a highlight.

The joy of cruising is that you have to unpack only once but get a different view from your bedroom window every day. With thousands of remote and inhabited islands scattered in an area the width of Europe like lustrous dark pearls cultured below the depths of the Pacific Ocean A ship is one of the best ways to see French Polynesia.

Limited to 50 passengers, the Australian bulk 69 metre luxury yacht Tia Moana, operated by Boar Bora Cruises, explores the pick of the Leeward Islands, leaving from picturesque Bora Bora to explore its lush mountainous neighbours Taha's, Huahine and Raiatea. Its size ensures personal attention and brings secluded beaches within easy reach.

Even the smallest of the 30 air-conditioned cabins decorated in dark wood and neutral tones, with Polynesian images and art is as comfortable as you'll experience in any five star hotel room. Each has twin or queen beds, a safe; DVD and CD player, remote-control flat screen LCD TV, writing desk and minibar.

The ultra-modern en suite bathrooms may not be as spacious as those in a hotel, but they cover all needs, with hairdryer and an exclusive range of bottled toiletries laced with the island's beauty secret, monoi coconut oils subtly scented with either frangipani or Tahiti tiare, the white gardenia you'll find behind many a woman's ear.

Entertainment on Deck each nightGuests can spread out across Tia Moana's five immaculate decks. Facilities include a jacuzzi, sunset bar and shaded lounge on the top deck. There's another exterior guest lounge on the bridge deck. A library with a broad music and DVD collection and Polynesian art and culture books, As well as a second jacuzzi, bar and outdoor terrace are on the upper deck. On the main deck is the Vahine Tua restaurant, with an outdoor seating area that has 180- degree views, plus a small gym and spa suite. Stairs from here descend to the lower deck where we hopped on and off the tenders and threw in a fishing line after dinner. No expense Has been spared on the Swedish furnishings and indigenous art that adorn the public areas and bedrooms. The latter have Kenzo bed throws and hand basins designed by Philippe Starck. But life on board is fairly causal even the uniformed staff roam barefoot.

By day four we were at the idylic island of Hana Iti near Huahine rumoured to be once owned by Spanish crooner Julio Iglesias.

After a vigorous beachside massage and a refreshing dip in the clear, temperate water, I craved a drink as naturally sweet as the scene before me.

With no fruit juice at hand, my concerned attendant waded waist deep to the anchored tender and motored 50 metres to the ship to pick up three chilled
choices mango, pineapple and orange plus a bottle of Hinano, the Tahitian brew, for my snorkelling buddy to sip at sunset.

Nothing was too much trouble. Colourful pareus (costumes) with matching cushions, towels and chairs were laid out for each couple on beach visits, one of which took us to the place where 19th century French artist Paul Gauguin lived and penned Noa Noa, his must read journal on Island life.

Every time we returned to our room it had been made up, with fresh towels and a replenihed min bar. Our wet bathers were rinsed, dried, folded and returned each morning by request (and for free). Bottled water was provided on every excursion and cool, moist towels handed out the moment we reboarded.

It was hard to fault. If a fork hit the deck, a replacement was soon on the dining table. Our wind glasses were constantly topped up. The staff were attentive without being intrusive and by week's end had become as cherished as family.

The quality of the meals was one of the biggest surprises and highlights of the cruise. Alsace trained chef Laurent Luttringer and his team are adventurous. Chocolate sauce with lagoon fish, papaya and sweet potato soup can be risky when you're catering to a broad mix of Russion, American, European. and Australian tastebuds, but the after dinner compliments were as sweet as the bedtime chocolates, with one discerning French guest comparing it to dining at a Michelin star restaurant every night.

We had anticipated a wide array of seafood but not the delivery, with a variety of other dishes that looked so artistic it was almost too good to eat. Each initial mouthful was never the last and we were left wanting more of the first dish until the next one arrived.

For breakfast we were spoilt with freshly baked breads and pastries, cereals, smoked salmon, hams, cheese and tropical fruits. Hot omelettes and crepes with maple syrup.

Lunch featured soup, an entree, a Tahitian special (always a highlight), pasta of the day or a gourmet sandwich with fries, plus three main choices fish, meat and poultry as well as a vegetarian option, a choice of sauces and side dishes, followed by cheese platters and dessert. Each course was degustation size so
You could try them all if you wanted.

Even after a lazy afternoon nap instead of a swim the appetite recovered on first sight of the dinner menu, another gastronomic six course affair. Wine with meals is included unless request the premium labels, and, really, you should save your Pacific francs for the pearls.
The international wines, mostly French matched each dish beautifully.

There is one restaurant on board, so to keep things interesting as if the food isn't enough the elegant candlelit decor regularly changed theme. One night tables were set with silver gilded
crustaceans and ornamental shells, the next African animal prints, fur cushions and throws. As added treats, a barbecue dinner and champagne breakfast were served on the beach.

Wearing nothing more than an itsy bitsy pareu and a few decorative leaves wrapped around his tanned arms and legs while strumming a ukulele, our Mata Tours guide serenaded us with a Tahitian ditty as we boarded his boat near Taha'a. With Steve Irwins death on my mind, I was nervous about hand feeding sharks and stingrays, but the experience had come highly recommended.

Still singing, our guide motored off to a shallow lagoon where black tipped reef sharks anticipated our arrival. Fortunately they were not interested in goggle eyed spectators but focused on the fish dangled before their pointed noses. It took me longer to enter the water on our second stop, where the rays gathered hungrily. But they were obviously used to the attention and harmlessly sidled up to us.The Tahitian Princess at night

Other activities which cost extra, include island jeep safaris. Stops generally include a vanilla plantation ( Tahiti produces 1 per cent of the world demand) and the islands most significant archaeological sites. A submarine tour, jet ski and helicopter sightseeing tours, horse riding, scuba diving and deep sea fishing fill the rest of the time. Kayaks are feely provided, as well as snorkelling gear.

The ship also visits a few small villages to pick up supplies, giving passengers a chance to forage for souvenirs and meet locals. Guests can get a traditional tattoo albeit temporary from 40 year old Taha'a artist Tavita Manea, who boards especially for that purpose. The final highlight was a dance performed by the Raiatea community. Even the youngest family member, in nappies, strutted the stage in traditional dress.