Moscow - Kazan car trip
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Part ONE General description Moscow is the capital of Russia, a huge megapolis with a population of 10 million, surrounded by the 10 million populated suburban area. Kazan is the old capitol of Tatarian state, incorporated to Russia in XVI century. Our route takes us to East through or near Vladimir (the cradle of the contemporary Russian state), Nizhniy Novgorod (simply “Nizhniy”, “lower”, a big city at the Volga river, so-called “2 ½ th capitol” of Russia), Cheboksary (pretty capitol of Chuvash republic) and many smaller cities and villages. This is a part of the Federal Road “Volga” from Moscow to Ufa. The total distance is equal to 872 km (545 mi). The time required to drive by car is 10-16 hours (depending on traffic jams, season, whether, road situation and police activity). Roads are best from June to September. Gas, food and water are not a problem. The usual day temperatures: winter - +2Co - - 15Co (lower temperatures up to - 30Co are probable); summer - +15Co - +25Co. In winter a part of road to East of Nizhniy may be closed for 12 hours and more because of snow-drifts. Money and prices. 1 US dollar is equal to about 26 Rubles (March, 2007). 1 Ruble consists of 100 Kopecks. There exist 1, 5, 10, 50 kopecks and 1, 2, 5, 10 Rubles coins as well as 5, 10, 50, 100, 500, 1000 and 5000 Rubles bills. By law, all payments in Russia must be made in Rubles. Credit cards are not yet widely accepted outside Moscow, so you should pay in cash. Change your money to Rubles in the exchange points at the central streets of big cities and never have business with private persons (they can propose you very “profitable” rates). Average prices (March, 2007) 1 liter of gasoline (Normal, N 92) - 19 Rubles. (1 gallon = 3.785 liters so its about $2.77 / gallon). Road rules and road police. Road rules are similar to European ones. Right turn on red is forbidden everywhere. The speed limit for the road – 90 km/h (56 mph). There are a few 110 km/h (68 mph) highways, but that’s exotic. The speed limit in the populated areas (cities and villages) – 60 km/h (37 mph). You can see 50, 40, 30, 20 and even 10 km/h speed limit signs. Be warned! Road police is everywhere here! Never speed more than 40 km/h (25 mph) or more. Never cross continuous and double continuous line. Never go on red. Never go under “brick” (“do not enter” sign) And, of course, never drive drunk. The road police is really hunting for these violations, because that’s the reason to arrest your driver license and they look forward to huge bribes. If you are stopped because of some violation, the good idea is to try to give them a half-fee. If you are not experienced in such deals – drive by rules. It’s better to be an idiot with license than a superman without one. (to be continued below)
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PART TWO
Moscow – Vladimir
So, we’re beginning from Moscow at Rogozhskaya Zastava (Rogozha Checkpoint) place, heading east and taking Shosse Entusiastov (Enthusiast’s road).
Here was the gate in a fence, marking the customs border of Moscow. The gate got its name from the old name of Noginsk city (former Rogozha city), now named for Victor Nogin, communist functionary dead in 1924. Noginsk is 40 miles ahead. “Rogozha” in Russian means simply “mat”.
The road we took is very famous. For hundreds and hundreds of years its name was Vladimirka (road to Vladimir). Just here thousands and thousands of prisoners began their long walk way to Sibir’s penal servitude prisons. In Russian “to take Vladimirka” means “to go to prison”. When communists took power they claimed: “Between thousands of criminals there were a few revolutionaries, “enthusiasts”. Let’s rename the road for the memory of these heroes.” So, inside Moscow the road has its strange name.
We’re going through large industrial zone at the East of Moscow. Usually traffic is very heavy here. Untill we’re breaking through jams – a little bit of history.
History knows a minimum of two Russian states.
First was “Ancient Russ” (IX-XIII centuries) – a usual European feudal state centered in Kiev (now Ukraine’s capitol). X-XI centuries was the time of the massive Russian migration to the upper Volga region (where we’re traveling). The territory was populated by primitive Finnish tribes, but the aborigines were assimilated peacefully. This region was no more than a North-Eastern remote area of the Ancient Russ state which was in zenith at the time.
In XII century Ancient Russ has been disintegrated for many little principalities, formally joined, but really independent and headed by princes. Gradually the leadership moved to north-eastern princes and one of them – Yuriy Dolgorukiy (George the Long Hand) – even rushed Kiev and got the Great Prince throne, unusual but prestigious. This famous prince had the capitol in Vladimir and found in 1147 Moscow as the western guard fortress.
In mid-XIII century the huge Mongolian army (known in Europe as “Tatars”) has completely destroyed Ancient Russ. All north-western cities were burnt (and Moscow too). The territory of Russ became a part of Mongols-headed state – Golden Horde. Now Mongolian khans decided which Russian prince will be “Great”.
But at the ruins, in north-eastern forests the new nation was born – Russians, and new state has arisen – Moscovia or, later, Russia.
The Moscow principality was very small, but rich. The Moscow prince Ivan Kalita (John the Money Bag) found a way to the heart of Mongolian rulers. He proposed them himself to be a “guide” for tax-collecting Mongolian troops. Using the occupation forces, Kalita has step by step added to Moscow the territories of the little principalities surrounding his domain. The descendants continued the policy. Moscow princes were very flexible, not too patriotic, but they built roads and cities, supported trade and handcraft, eliminated gangsters and river pirates – and Moscow state grown, consolidating the Russian people. Mongolian state became weaker and weaker and in 1480 Moscow Prince Ivan III proclaimed the independence. This Moscow ruler for the first time got the title of “Tsar I Velikiy Gosudar Vseya Russee” (“Cesar and Great Monarch of the All Russia”). The new state has appeared on the world scene. In XIX century the state was named the Russian Empire, and in XX – the USSR. For more than 800 years the Moscow city was and now is its heart.
(to be continued)
So, 9 miles of jams are broken through and we go under a wide highway. This is Moscow Circle Road (MKAD), the pride of Moscow major, european class 6-lines/direction 70 mi long circle freeway. The road was assumed to be the border of Moscow, but now city is expansed outside circle.
Moscow Circle Road
As soon as we leave Moscow we can see many huge retail trading centers. You can buy here everything: from food and cloth up to sea yacht. Everything here is cheaper than in Moscow and every weekend millons of Moscovites come here for shopping.
Moscow is surrounded by such super-huge markets. That's because leaving Moscow we leave one subject of federation and come to another one.
Russian Federation, being federation, consists of subjects of federation - like United States consist of states. These subjects may have different status: republics, krays (lands), oblasts(areas), but the difference is mainly in words. There exist only three subjects really different of all: federal cities Moscow and St. Petersburg and Chechen republic (last because of rebell). Every subject has its own laws and taxes. Taxes in Moscow are very high (land tax first of all) and that's the reason why huge supermarkets are sitting at the Moscow fence (in Moscow oblast).
We go through Balashikha city with its infinite traffic lights (3 mi) and come to suburban area. Road is good (3 lines/direction, directions are often physically divided), but be careful: area is populated with speed limit 37 mph.
In 30 miles of Moscow border - Noginsk (former Rogozha, of "rogozha" - mat, or "rogoza" - kind of water grass, Typha, ). First mentionned in 1389, stagecoach station from 1506, city from 1781 (up to 1930 named Bogorodsk). Population - 116 300 (2006). We
Noginsk one way tram: (from: www.noginsk.tramvaj.ru)won't go through Noginsk, leaving it at left (north) of road. Here we cross so-called "First betonka" - 40 mi radius circle road around Moscow. One can say that "Big Moscow" ends here. There exist also "Second betonka" (70 mi radius) road. These circle roads was built for the stategic purposes, but now are under reconstruction for commercial use.
About 40 miles ahead - Kirzhach, the border of Moscow oblast. Here we can see a lot of little shops - sign of the another taxes stepdown. We enter Vladimir oblast. A few miles ahead - Pokrov city.
Pokrov chokolate museum: (from: www.pokrovcity.ru)
This little (15600) city found in 1778 is known to every child in Russia because of big chokolate factory. The chokolate museum is the main attraction of the city.
We are in 50 miles of Vladimir. Up to Lakinsk (30 mi) the road is good and straight and we have a bit of time to recognize one thing and to make one decision.
"Pokrov" in Russian means especially the headscarf of the Blessed Virgin and generally "cover". Deep in the soul every Russian believes: Blessed Virgin loves and protects him (as well as whole Russia). And if a situation will be mortaly dangerous - Blessed Virgin will "cover", save him.
Somewhere here, where we're taking road, the son of Youriy Dolgorukiy, Andrey Bogoliubskiy (Andrew the Godloving), escorted by a few men stayed for the night in a little grove. The prince was being chased and rounded up by numerous enemie's troops and there was no chance to escape. The night prince had a vision: Blessed Virgin came to him and covered him with her headcraft. The morning a fog was so dence that the enemies could not find Andrew in the grove and he succeeded in escape.
There exist many similar legends. The name of Pokrov is very popular in Russia for churches, villages and cities.
We have three opportunities to cross Vladimir urban area.
First is to go through Vladimir city. If we want to explore Vladimir's museums, visit its old churches and see its historical monuments as well as to visit historical Suzdal city (25 mi to north) - we have to enter Vladimir and stay there. But Vladimir should be a subject of special exploration and we won't do so now.
If we want go to Kazan fast - we have to find about 10 mi after Lakinsk a little right arrow: "Nizhniy Novgorod"(in Russian) and take the right turn. The road goes south of Vladimir and this is the fastest way. But here we shall see nothing exept the road.
We'll go to north of Vladmir to see the country residence of Russian princes and beautiful Pokrov on Nerl church.
Warning! The northern way uses two bridges, which may be closed. Ask road police officer for the subject.
So, after Lakinsk (16600 pop - 2006, city since 1931) in about 20 mi we see city sign of Vladimir and take left on the fork with the traffic light.
Vladimir is at right of us. Welcome!
The total distance from Moscow to Vladimir is about 115 mi.