TyrolIt was late afternoon when my husband and I reached the Krimml Waterfall in the Tyrol area of Austria. It was the dead of winter and the place seemed to be deserted.
Not to be deterred, we walked through the enchanting woods to reach the path where the one and a half hour climb up the path to see the waterfalls begins. The waterfall cascades down three levels to the very bottom where the high volume of water crashes down with a thundering cloud of spray. At every turn of the switchback path through the woods, you can see Europe’s largest waterfall from a different angle.
The day we arrived, the path was covered with snow and slippery. Not being in the best of shape, I was getting winded. After about an hour climb, we reached level ground and a country inn restaurant. I was so happy. We stopped for a very late lunch. My husband was determined to finish the climb and get to the very top. I asked the proprietor about the rest of the climb. “How is it?” I asked. “Steep, very steep,” was the reply.
Krimml WaterfallI had hopes that after a hearty meal of Wiener Schnitzel and potatoes topped with an apple strudel my husband would realize the folly of his quest and give it up. I didn’t relish the idea of climbing down the steep, icy path in the dark.
After we paid the bill, my husband was ready to begin the last part of the “steep, very steep” climb. This is where the stubborn part of my personality came out for a rare appearance. I refused. We climbed back down and for years, my husband liked to tell the story of how I chickened out from climbing to the very top. He absolutely refused to acknowledge the fact that by the time we reached the car it was almost dark.
A few years later we returned to the Krimml Waterfall and this time I was ready. We spent the night in the town and were able to start the climb in the morning. In addition, I had my Austrian walking sticks. We made it to the very top. Now, we had another story to tell.
Itinerary through Tyrol
But I’m getting ahead of this story. This is an itinerary through the incredibly beautiful Austrian province of Tyrol, which fills a long narrow strip of Austria intersected by the Inn Valley and enclosed by spectacular mountains and Alpine splendor.
It seems that all the grandeur of nature is packed into one place. You can see lush green fields, meadows of wildflowers stretching as far as the eye can see; quaint villages where every chalet is picture perfect and decorated with geraniums.
In winter, you can see powerful mountains and valleys covered with endless snow and friendly inns along the way that offer hot chocolate and delicious home-cooked Austrian food. Every village has its own ski lifts and the choices for skiing are endless. The Krimml Waterfall is one of the enchanting sights along this route
SalzburgWe started this itinerary in Salzburg, a beautiful Austrian city soaked with culture. We left heading south.
If you are not in a big hurry you could do a short 15 kilometer detour into Germany to see Berchtesgaden, Adolf Hitler’s famous mountaintop summer retreat, and the Konigssee, the cleanest, highest and most romantic lake in upper where you can take a cruise getting on and off at various points. The guide blows a trumpet to demonstrate the echo bouncing off the cliffs.
Back to Austria
Our first stop is Golling, a charming town with about 3,500 residents with a picturesque main street filled with three-story houses, some colorful, where the balconies are studded with geraniums.
Many visitors use Golling as a base for various outdoor activities in the nearby mountains and the town is filled with signs of rooms to let, but we will not stay here, because even more beautiful sights await us.
Go two kilometers west of the resort to see the Gollinger Waterfall that tumbles down 153 meters over a rock wall. You need at least an hour to walk to the waterfall and do a short climb to see it completely. If you decided to spend the night in the area, there are small hotels and rooms are plentiful.
After returning to Golling, we continued 17 kilometers to Werfen. On the way we crossed the Pass Lueg and drove along the Salzach River. It is worthwhile to stop and see the Hohenwerfen Citadel, built in 1077 as a strategic bulwark atop a 155-meter rock. Wander through the weapons exhibit and don’t miss the daily flight demonstration of trained falcons and other birds of prey.
Largest Ice Cave in the World
Ice CaveThe next attraction on our list is the Eisriesenwelt, the largest ice cave in the world whose halls are decorated with natural fairyland formations, gigantic columns, towers, ice waterfalls, and glaciers.
Several entrances to the cave allow chilly air currents to flow in so the ice formations change slightly every year. The entrance to the caves is not visible from the valley, so the cave was not discovered until 1849.
Make sure you bring warm clothes and give yourself 5-6 hours, including the ride up with the cable car from the town of Werfen, a walk to the entrance of the cave and a two-hour guided walk. The guide gives every fifth person in the group a lantern, you walk in a row and every few minutes the guide ignites a fuse that lights up an interesting formation.
Our next destination is Bad Gastein, one of the well-known resorts in Austria, mostly due to its healing thermal waters and its ski trails. The town, dotted with beautiful, huge hotels is in the middle of the Hohe Tauern National Park, and it basks in fresh mountain air and a beautiful setting at 1,000 meters above sea level.
My Favorite Hotel in the World
Here is the part where I tell you about one of my favorite hotels in the world. It’s the magical Hotel Gruener Baum just a few kilometers out of the town of Bad Gastein in a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains.
We were traveling with another couple through Austria when we happened on the hotel. Our itinerary called for staying in each place only one night, but after a few minutes at the Gruener Baum, we made a collective decision to stay a few nights longer.
It’s the kind of place you would be foolish to leave. The small, deluxe resort complex that resembles a small village has been in the same family for generations and their loving attention can be seen everywhere.
Each room, located in several chalet-style buildings, is individually decorated. There is a stream running through the property, and there are gardens and walking paths and a spa. This place is nothing short of paradise. It’s large, but intimate, and offers the charm and hospitality of a family resort. Members of the family join guests for drinks in the afternoon and wander through the restaurant to make sure their guests are happy.
The restaurant is fabulous. The hotel is expensive, but to seize this dream, it’s worth it.
If you’re staying in the Gruener Baum, it’s possible that you will not want to get off the property. However, in case you do, there are many nature walks and Bad Gastein itself is worth a visit along its promenades with their breathtaking views.
Take a Cable Car up the Schmittenhohe
Zell am SeeThe next stop on our trip is the pleasant and charming town of Zell am See, built along the shores of the Zeller Lake. There are many hotels and pensions from which to choose and the town center, with its pedestrian area and 11th century parish church, is beautifully preserved.
There are two wonderful things to do here. One is to walk along the path that runs around the lake. The other is to take the cable car up to the Schmittenhohe Mountain, 1,965 meters high, where you can see a 360-degree panorama of bold limestone massifs and snow capped peaks of the Hohe Tauren Mountains. Enjoy a lunch at the restaurant while looking down to the lake, which from the top looks like a postage stamp.
After spending the night here, we drive towards a picturesque town called Lofer, which is so charming it looks like a movie set. It is both a summer and winter resort and again, there are many choices for hiking and skiing. Lofer’s old houses are incredibly preserved and beautiful. I’ve visited the town at least three times and was charmed anew each time.
Finally you get to the Krimml Waterfall, at 380 meters the highest waterfall in Europe and a beautiful sight both in winter and summer. Just make sure you begin the climb early in the day and enjoy. I hope you won’t find it “Steep. Very steep.”
Travel to Mayrhofen for the Food
To complete the itinerary you would drive from Krimmel to the Gerlospass that winds through sharp and dangerous turns. This will bring you to Gerlos, a ski resort that looks like one giant hotel spread out throughout the town with ski shops interspersed between.
Two other places to visit are Zell Am Ziller, a village with about 2,000 residents that has houses that are hundreds of years old, but beautifully preserved. If you made it this far, you should drive another 7 kilometers to get to Mayrhofen, a ski resort with lots of cable cars that take you up the mountains.
Here I will let you in on another secret. Mayrhofen has a restaurant that makes the trip to get here worthwhile. Its called Griena, on Dorfhaus street, number 768. It’s a bit out of town but with a GPS or some friendly locals you will find it. It serves traditional Austrian food that you don’t see anywhere else in an authentic ambiance.
From here you are also close to Innsbruck, one of Austria’s beautiful cities and a ski resort.
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